More and more emerging brands already reflect on these problems within this industry. However, it must be considered that it is not possible to catalog any fashion brand as an example due to the lack of transparency of its processes and the social and environmental practices of its businesses. For example, some companies do not make their production processes public. On the contrary, they adopt a “radio-silence” approach to environmental goals. If somebody asks about their climate goals, they decline to answer. This is called green hushing. Within this framework, some brands are worth being mentioned as they have aspects that can be considered as good practices.

Among some of those brands, it is possible to highlight:

• Elementum a sustainable brand which advocates zero waste concepts and makes sustainability a priority
• Stella McCartney  is committed to climate action and science-based targets (like reaching net-zero emissions by 2040)
• Patagonia that, under the moto “the climate crisis is our business”, makes products based on environmental profit and loss.

For further options, check Good on You, an online directory that rates fashion brands based on Planet, People and Animals sustainability.

Although there are more and more brands concerned with the economic value chain of what they produce, it is difficult to catalog any fashion brand as an example, due to the lack of transparency of their processes and commercial practices. In this context, some brands deserve to be mentioned because they present aspects that can be considered as good practices, even if some may not be totally transparent:

• Naz is a Portuguese sustainable fashion brand under the moto “creating democratic fashion for a mindful tomorrow”.
• Harvest & Mill’s is another brand that manufactures locally to reduce its carbon footprint and uses low impact non-toxic dyes or no dyes in all of its products. Nevertheless, it is unclear whether it ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain.
• Similarly, and despite Econscious uses a high proportion of eco-friendly materials and audits in the final stages of production, there is no evidence it ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain.

For further options, check Good on You, an online directory that rates fashion brands-based Planet, People and Animals sustainability.

As far as good practices are concerned, consumers can consult, among other sources, the Fashion Transparency Index to be informed on the position of companies with regard to the transparency of their operations.

Campaigns like those from Fashion Revolution, namely “Who Made My Fabric?” or “Good Clothes, Fair Pay” are good practices to raise awareness and educate citizens, while encouraging them to be active and to pressure brands to be more transparent in their practices, eventually by changing them.

On the part of companies, it is urgent that they change their production methods and certify that the factories where the garments are produced comply with the required working conditions, implementing practices for the protection and sustainable use of water, soil and raw materials.

One of the biggest examples on bad practices was the disaster at Rana Plaza. In 2013, this garment factory in Bangladesh collapsed due to structure problems. More than 1000 people died and over 2000 were injured. This incident brought attention to the working conditions these people had to accept every day, but no major changes were made and on the next day workers had to return to work.

Another common malpractice is the cultural appropriation carried out by the big fashion firms on the ethnic, folkloric and traditional elements of other cultures, using their ancestral designs as their own. Firms like Zara, Nike, Louis Vuitton, Carolina Herrera, Mango, Rapsodia, and others have been accused of taking indigenous designs from Mexico, Puerto Rico, Panamá and other countries.

Although environmental concerns are increasing among practitioners, it is not possible to identify, with accuracy, companies that respect all guidelines on the different aspects that should be observed within this field. Still, more and more brands with environmental concerns are emerging:

• Fibershed is an American non-profit organization that develops regional fiber production systems to later be used in the co-infection of garments. It does so through the link between end users and producers, in a logic of local, transparent and circular economy
• Regenerative Organic Alliance has a program called Regenerative Organic Certified, which is a certification for food, fiber and ingredients for beauty products. The certification undergoes a careful process in which various parameters are evaluated, such as soil health and maintenance, animal welfare, equity and social stability

• The campaign “Care What you Wear”, by Regeneration International, aims to educate and raise awareness among consumers about why and how they should purchase clothing that supports regenerative agriculture, responsible production and fair working practices